Lined hat and hat lining



June 1o 1924; 1,496,771 M. GRAFF v LINED HAT AND HAT- LINING nginalFiledmamh 14, 1922 2 shams-sneer 2 Patented June 10, 1924.

MURRAY GRAFF, or NEW Yo-RLK, N. Y.

i LINED HAT AND HAT LINING.

Application led March 14, 1922, Serial No. 543,733. Renewed December 17,1923.

T 0 all whom-it may concern.'

Be it known that I, MURRAY GRAFF, citizen of the United States, andresident of New York city, in the' county of Bronx and State of NewYork, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Lined Hatsand Hat Innings, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in lined hats andhat linings. Itsobjects are to produce, at a low manufacturing cost, lined soft hatshaving creased crowns on which the lining crown piece may be bent andclamped to hold the upper portion of the lining properly in place; toproduce the hat linings in such a manner that a lining of a given sizefor a hat of va given size will properly fit, a hatfcrown of anothersize, whereby it will not be required, as according to presentpractice', to make a given size of hat lining for each given size of hatcrown, and, at the same time, to make the linings of a more pleasingappearance than they have been heretofore made; to make the linings of alarger circumference than they have been heretofore made adjacent andimmediately below the Acrown piece, inorder that the linings may not, attheir up.

per portion adjacent-the crown piece, un duly bear on coiffures at thetop of the head, as is the case with hat linings as heretoforemanufactured; to obviate the use of a buckram crown piece and a coveringfor it by making the crown piece preferably of a single ply of flexiblefabric maintainable in either a flat condition or'in a bowed andclamping condition, as may be required, by

v providing the lining at its crown piece portion with a light-weight,metallic and preferably laterally bendable distender.

It is not necessary'however. in accordance with this invention, that thedistender 'should be laterally bendable because where it is not desiredto use the distender as a clamp for holding the top of the lining toarsoft hat crown crease-wall, the distender may be made of suiiicientlystiff material to resist such lateral bending and to be used flatwise inmens hats and womens hats having stiff crowns.

In general practice, the one ply fabric crown piece will be a woven orprinted label of flexible material; but the invention is not limited, ofcourse, to crown piece-formv:ing labels. l.

Heretofore, the crown pieces have comprised an oval buckram stiifeningpiece which, if bent sharply, becomesmore or less permanently deformedeither in the factory or in the course of shipment or otherwise; andthis piece of buckram has .been by commercial custom required to beconcealed by an under coveringl piecel of material.`

This practice involves not only the use of two pieces of materialfor,making the crown piece,'but also the labor and expense of dieing outand handling two crown piece forming plies instead of one.

In large quantity vproduction the prior practice is substantially moreexpensive than is the practice of thepresent invention.y

In theJ accompanying drawings forming a part hereof and illustratingtheinvention in the best form now known to me,

Fi'g; 1 is` a side elevation of the ont` or wrong side of my new hatlining detached.

Fig. 2 is a top plan view of what is shown in Fig. l. E

Fig. 3 is an enlarged verticalview of a portion ofthe vertical side ofthe side piece to show the preferably triang'ularly 'fluted ribs andinterspaces of the lining.

Fig. Lis a top plan view of a portion of the 'lining as viewed from the.upper end of it while it is in an approximately tubular state before itis attached to the crown piece.

Fig. 5 is an end plan view of'a portion of the lining as viewed from theunder end of it while it is in an approximately tubular state before itis attached to the cro-wn piece( Fig. 6 shows the` wire distending ringfor the top ofthe lining. i

Fig. 7 is an enlarged detail at line 7 7 of Fig. 2 and shows theassemblage of the distending ring with the crown piece and side piece.

Fig. 8 is a top plan view of a soft hat having a creased-in crown top. v

Fig. 9 is'a section at line 9 9 of Fig. 8

` and shows the interior of the hatl provided with my new lining and itsdistending ring and crown piece bent upwardly into clamping engagementwith the crown crease-wall of the hat.

Fig. 10 is an enlarged view showing a cross-section of Va continuousoval trough formed around thev upper 'side of the crown piece whichforms the under trough wall andthe superposed., stitched-together amar#gin of the crown piece and side piece which are turned over the upperside of the crown piece to form the upper flange of the trough forreception of the lining distender.

In the illustrated form of the invention, the oval crown piece 1 isshown as a woven label of one ply, but it need not be a label, and ifdesired might be made of a plurality of plies. rlhe margin of the crownpiece is stitched at 2 in an oval seam to the margin of the side piecela, the margin of the side piece being superposed on that margin of thecrown piece surface which forms its under side when the lining is inplace in a hat. rlhe raw edge of the crown piece and the theretoadjacent raw edge of the side piece are preferably flush. As the seamingoperation at 2 progresses, the superposed stitched together margins areturned over in flange forming fashion so as to over-hang the upper sideof the crown piece; that is, to over-hang the side which is opposed tothe hat crown when the lining is in place in a hat, whereby a continuousoval trough 4 is formed around the wrong or upper side of the crownpiece. The inturned, two-ply flange thus formed is indicated by 5.

An endless crown piece distender in the form of an oval wire ring (i issprung into the trough and keeps the crown piece initialv ly and alsopermanently flat, unless it is to be used as a hat crown crease clamp.In its function as a crown piece distender for holding the crown pieceflat, it also keeps the upper, adjacent margin of the side piecedistended, and thus operates as a distender for the 4upper closed end ofthe cup-like lining.

The side piece is fluted or plaited in upwardly and downwardlyalternating rib andgroove-like space style from the crown piecedownwardlvto a greater or lesser extent as may be desired. It is shownso 'tluted down to its under edge which is shown below the upper edge ofthe sweat leather 7 in the soft hat crown S shown with an inbent creasewall 9. Preferably, for the best results, the fluting ribs l0 are widestat their upper ends where they are sewn to the crown piece and tapergradually downwardly so that when viewed in plan they are approximatelyof elongated, triangular shape.A They are made preferably-about -136- ofan inch wide at their upper ends and about t, of an inch wide at theirunder ends. The groove-like spaces between the ribs are indica-ted by11.

As the side piece is of relatively lightweight.

fabric,` the precise .form of the alternating ribs and grooves is notnecessarily fully maintained at all times, but, neverthelesgthb goodshaving been once fluted.y as stated` retain substantially thealternating rib and groove structure. Where the upper and wider endsofthe ribs are sewn to the crown piece, the side piece is gathered atintervals as at 12 in order to make the goods come out even, as thephrase is in sewing parlance, and also in order to give the side piece anew and useful cross-sectional fullness and projection outwardly of thecrown piece at, near and downwardly below its under side. The iutingribs actually stifl'en the lining material and promote thecircumferentially bellying out of the lining adjacent the under side ofthe crown piece, whereby the cup shaped lining thus enlarged at itsupper end better fits coiffures on the top of womenls heads than hasbeen the case heretofore where the upper portion of the cup-like lininghas been of substantially lesser dimension in cross-section than is nowthe case.

It is to be understood that the side pieces may be fluted in the up anddown direction with parallel alternating ribs and groovelike spaces, andthe results obtainable from such a style of fiuting are very good; butin practice l find that the triangular form described gives somewhatand, in fact, Aquite pronounced, better results. Aestheticall'vconsidered, the up and down fluted linings are very desirable; but, inaddition to the mechanical function of causing the upper end of thelining to belly out beyond the crown piece, the ribs also function inanother important and economic particular for they make the liningcircumferentially elastic so that an upwardly and downwardly Huted sidepiece, in connection with. the crown piece, results in a lining which,although made of a definite normal cross-sectional size, is practicallyand commercially useful for lining hats of somewhat larger sizes or evenof somewhat smaller sizes. Bv present practice, hat linings are made invarious definite sizes, each given size being for a hat crown of acorresponding size. By present practice the crown pieces comprise abuckram stiifener covered on the under side by a piece of materialusually the same size as the side piece, both pieces being died out andinvolving two separate dieing operations. If the buckram becomes undulybent the crown piece becomes objectionably deformed; and the use of thebuckram and its under side cover also entails other expense that isobviated by the present invention.

The crown piece distending ring for hats, other than soft hats havingtheir crowns creased in, need not be laterally bendable as heretoforeexplained; but it is preferred to make them of bendable metal so thateach may be useful either for flatwise distention of the crown piece orfor upward bending so as to be pinched upon the sides and clamp thecrown piece to the sides of the creasewall t) of a soft hat for holdingthe crown piece of the lining on the under marginal bulge 9a' of thecrease-wall, and for also maintaining the crease in shape. This is animportant use of the flexible distender as a part of linings for mens.soft hats..

llt)

fwn

Then so used, the fluted side piece, because of its iluted structure,rises up into the spaces at each side of the crown crease and generallyinto contact with the hat crownv wall, as indicated at 13, causing thelining generally but not invariably to remain bowed up into the positionas shown. This is due to the resistance of the flatwise up wardly anddownwardly curvature of the ribs at 13. The fluted ribs give a certaindegree of inherent stiffness to the side piece when the ribs are bent asindicated. In metal, this function would be recognized as an engineeringfact, and it is quite a practical reality even in connection withrelatively light weight. silks, or other fabrics come monly used for hatlinings. The usual slanted side seam of the side piece is indicated by14, the side piece being showncord exposed between the crown piece and`side piece, is obviated: and so also is obviated the so called weltlining between the crown and side piece as involved in the prior art.The met-al distending ring has a considerable degree of inherentstiffness and functions to stretch out the lining adjacent the seam bywhich the crown piece and the side piece are united together; and italso functions to resist bucklingl of the crown piece, which is madepreferably of a freely flexible fabric instead of buckram which has aconsiderable inherent'stiffness and often becomes more or less bent orcrumpled to vthe commercial injury of the hat linings.

The area of the crown piece is considerably less than thecross-sectional area of the dis tended slde piece, and smaller, inrelation thereto, than in all prior practice known to The metaldistending ring is endless so that it has no free ends to work out,ofplace and pierce the goods. In the enlarged Fig. 10, the seam 2 is shownspaced apart from the edges of the crown piece and side piece to agreater extent than occurs in the actual size of the commercial product.In Figs. 7 and 10, the side piece is shown plain, without any fluting,and in the broader aspect of the invention, the side piece may be ofplain non-fiuted goods, if preferred. Another feature of the inventionlies in' the use of the endless wire distender as a frame for keepingthe label, whether woven or printed, in a taut condition, thereby addingto the neatness and commercial advantage of the hat lining. The wovenlabel art and the printed fabric label art each has its own peculiarconditions; and such labels have raw or cut edges to some extent. Byframing crown piece forming labels, as herein shown, the raw or -cutedges require nospecial treatment like the well known bending over onthe label backs of the rawor cut edge margins of such labels andhot-creasing them in special machines. In the present case, such edgesand margins form merely the concealed edges around the upper or wrongoutside of the tip portion adjacent the hat crown. The distending ringfits tightly in the trough-like pocket provided for it, and isperipherally hugged by the side wall of the trough or pocket. It is notnecessary that the crown piece be oval or that the distending ring beoval, and, of course, a metal distending ring havingends and of asuitable form might be used in a pocket formed otherwise than as atrough. If desired, the distending ring maybe omitted in order to obtaina uniformly soft lining without any stiffening members at all. Andwhether thes'ide piece be in anywise uted or be made of plain smoothgoods, the side piece, being of and by itself by usual practice a tubeof uniform diameter, the gathering of the upper margin of the side pieceat 12 invorder-to make the upper end of the attached tube forming sidepiece fit the margin of the crown piece, causes the upper portion of theside piece to belly outwardly around, adjacentand below the crown piece.Such soft linings are' desirable for some classes and styles of hats;and in the form of the invention shown, the lining is in its entiretya'soft, freely flexible lining without any stiffening members at all,but by preference has the open sided# flanged trough or pocketdescribedinto and out of which the distending ring may be moved whendesired, the distending ring being preferably demountable andreplaceable at will.

The margin of the crown piece or .tipv l is bent over that sideofthecrown piece which in usey is its top side and herein shown as itswrong'side to form a continuous flange a that overhangs the mainportion. of the crown piece, as shown in Fig. 10. Thus the crown pieceis formed around the edge of its normally flat main portion with apocket wall b, and this pocket wall projects laterally outwards beyondthe seam or stitching at 2, whereby the margins of the crown piece andside piece are superposedly united. The endless crown piece distender ormetallic ring 6 is placed in this pocket and tightly fits therein,whereby the pocket wall o of the crown piece and the main body of thecrown piece are laterally distended and the distender ring itself iscompressively `held in place in the pocket, the peripheral surface ofthe distending ring being located in the lateral bottom of the pocketand outwardly of the seam 2. The conjoint result of the pocket so formedand of the so dimensionefl ring with the side piece la vertically llutedwith folds which are widest at the top adjacent the crown piece andtaper' gradually downwards, is to cause the so fluted side piece tobelly outwards around and slightly below the crown piece, whereby theupper end of the hat lining is substantially en larged, better to fitprotuberant coilfures. The metal distending ring` is difcultlydeformable by pressure on its periphery, but is transversely bend able.

That I claim is:

l. As a new article of manufacture, a hat lining comprising aseamed-together crown piece and side piece and a metal distending ring;the crown piece being formed with a bent angelike pocket side forming,marginal wall overhanging and spaced apart from the normally top side ofits main portion, and with a lateral pocket wall outwardly of the seamwhich unites the crown piece and' side piece; thereby forming a pocketin which the distending ring is snugly located with its peripheryoutwardly of said seam.

2. As a new article of manufacture, a hat lining comprising aseamed-together crown piece and side piece and a transversely bendablemetal distending ring; the crown piece being formed with a bentflange-like pocket side forming, marginal wall overhanging` and spacedapart from the normally top side of its main portion, and with a lateralpocket wall outwardly of the seam which unites the crown piece and sidepiece; thereby forming a pocket in which the distending ring is snuglylocated with its periphery outwardly of said seam.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a hat lining comprising aseamed-together crown piece and side piece and a metal distending ring;the crown piece being; formed with a bent flange-like pocket sideforming, marginal wall overhanging and spaced apart from the normallytop side of its main portion,

and with a lateral pocket wall outwardly of the seam which unites 'thecrown piece and side piece; thereby forming a pocket in which thedistending ring is snugly located with its periphery outwardly of saidseam; and the side lining' being tinted from its upper end downwardlywith flirting ribs widest at their upper ends adjacent the crown pieceand tapering gradually downwards.

4. As a new article of manufacture, a hat having a soft, creased-incrown and a lining comprising a seamed-together crown piece and sidepiece and transversely beudable metal distendinfgj ring; the crown piecebe ingA formed with a bent flange-like pocket side forming, marginalwall overhanginpand spaced apart from the normally top side of its mainportion, and with a lateral pocket wall outwardly of the seam whichunites the crown piece and side pier-e; thereby forming a pocket inwhich the distending ring' is snugly located with its peripheryoutwardly of said seam; the transversely bendable metal distending ringbeing bent upwardly to clamp the top of the lining on the creased-incrown.

5. As a new article of manufact-ure, a hat lining comprising aseamed-together crown piece and side piece and a metal distending ring;the crown piece being formed with a bent flange-like pocket sideforming, marginal wall overhanging and spaced apart from the normallytop side of its main portion, and with a lateral pocket wall outwardlyof the seam which unites the crown piece and side piece; thereby formingapocket in which the distending ring, is snugly located with itsperiphery outwardly of said seam; the distending ring being' unconfinedaround its inner circumferential wall and being thereby demountable andreplaceable at will.

Signed at New York city, in the county of New York and State of NewYork, this Q8 day of February, A. D. 1922.

MURRAY GRAPE

